The Treadheads Do France:

bulletThe Group:  There were Fourteen of us that went on this trip.  I don't believe that any one person on the trip knew every other person on the trip well.    Joyce, Brad, Mike, Sandy, Steve, June, Ken, Mary Kay, Karen, and David all ride the Cincinnati MS150 as part of a team called the Treadheads.  Sandy knew Rosalie (one of our hosts) from a long time back.  She approached the group about doing a trip to France and staying at Domaine Du Haut Baran.  This group of eight mentioned above decided the trip would be fun.  We then invited friends.  Mike and Sandy invited Sue and Gary.  Karen and David invited Joe and Kathleen.  The one thing I should mention is that the women in the group are very attractive; the men much less so.  There were four couples on the trip.  I'm not going to tell you who they were.  I also am not going to tell you who I am.  Guess at the end if you like.

 Meet the Treadheads


Link to National MS Society
 
bullet Our Hosts:  William, and Rosalie are the couple that own Domaine Du Haut Baran.  They are a delightful couple and together with Alberta (Rosalie's mother) they make wonderful hosts.  William filled the role of tour guide, while Rosalie was the executive chef and concierge.  There was nothing we missed.  Alberta assisted Rosalie and William, and was wonderful in her own right.  The most impressive thing was that they were up all night with us, and then up before us with breakfast prepared.  Our rooms were always neat and tidy.  Our meals were nothing short of spectacular and they made it look effortless.  We know it was a lot of work; we can be a difficult group.  They never let on that we were a chore.

 Meet our hosts

 

bulletThe Trip:  Our plan was to stay one week at Domaine Du Haut Baran in Puy L'Eveque, about an hour north of Toulouse.  We were to all  book our own flights in and out, with the understanding that we would all arrive and leave Toulouse at the same time.  Some of us booked flights on Delta using frequent flyer miles.  Some of us booked flights on Air France, a Delta partner.  Still others flew in to Paris and took the train.  On September 4 Air France announced a strike effective September 5 through September 9.  This caused everyone not already in France to rebook on another carrier or at least a different flight.  The group flew into either Brussels or Milan on five different flights, and then on to Toulouse.  Still, we all arrived within an hour of one another. 
Photos from airports and stuff
bulletOur Temporary Home
 
The Domaine Du Haut Baran: We stayed in a great bed and breakfast, Domaine Du Haut Baran. William met us at the airport, arranged for bicycle rentals, dealt with airlines and lost luggage claims, planned trips for us, and conducted tours.  Rosalie and Alberta cooked, cleaned, treated us like family, told us where to shop and what to buy, and planned meals both in and out for us.  Rosalie also decorated the Baran and made special arrangements for Brad and Joyce's anniversary.  The setting was wonderful, the rooms were very nice, the vacation was restful.

See the Domaine Du Haut Baran

Visit Haut Baran website

bullet The Week:

Friday September 6:  Our departure was hectic.  Most of us flew over together.  We flew from Cincinnati to Newark to Brussels to Toulousse.  This because of the Air France Strike.  Sue Flew Delta and was routed through Milan (where her luggage vacationed).  Ken and Mary Kay flew from Cincinnati to London? and Met up with June.  From there they flew to Brussels and met up with us.  Joyce, Brad, Steve, Gary, Sandy, and Mike all got pegged as security risks because (we think) our international flights were booked less than 24 hours earlier.  We got to watch all our luggage get unpacked and repacked.  We got our shoes checked for explosives.  What fun.

 
bulletPhotos of Newark Airport Lounge

Saturday September 7:  Saturday was spent rejoicing in the fact that we all were on vacation!  Our first stop after the airport was the French equivalent of a mini-mart.  This place was very well appointed and we all bought snacks, water, and wine.  It started one of the all time great evenings in my life.  We opened three bottles of wine for the ride to Domaine du Haut Baran.  We ate French junk food (theirs is better than ours).  We arrived at our temporary home and the adventure began.  William and Rosalie introduced us to Alberta, and to a life style we wish we could afford.  The first thing we all did was run from room to room to see what each room looked like.  Every room was different, but each was well appointed and very comfortable.  We then all retired to the pool and drank more wine.  After the wine came Cuir Rouge before dinner and then dinner.  We had duck confit, with an appitizer of smoked salmon.  Our salad was mixed greens with bleu cheese and walnuts from the tree seen overhanging the party tent.  I went to bed before dessert so I don't know what dessert was.  Grand total for day 1 was 28 bottles of wine.  I should also mention that two people in one van mooned the other van on the ride from the airport.

See pictures of our first few hours in France

Sunday September 8

Rocamadour is the second most visited place in France.  There will be pictures of the most visited place later.  It is a city built into the side of a cliff.  It is also a holy shrine.  To learn more and see photos take the link.

Sunday September 8

Monday September 9
 

Total miles:  32    Total climb:  2000 ft.
AM Miles:  13.1  AM Climb:    600 ft.
PM Miles:   18.9  PM Climb:  1400 ft.


I'm not giving out our average speed.  It was slow, very slow.
Monday was the day of our first real ride.  We were all struck by the beauty and the hills.  Next trip, we're riding the Netherlands.  We learned a few things that were surprising.  The area is full of steep hills; the area is full of small towns; the area is full of history.  We did two loops.  In the morning we rode down to the bike rental place (they were closed), and then through several small towns..  In the afternoon, we rode to Chateau Bonaguil and a winery that hosted a bird museum,
le museum ornithologique des hauts de bonaguil.  The winery was at the top of a three hundred foot climb covering about one mile.  The thing that we found most amazing was how easy it was to pull over and not ride.  There were fresh berries to sample, gypsy wagons, wineries, and vineyards all very close to Haut Baran.  The people we met along the way were all wonderful. 

See Bonaguil

 

Tuesday September 10

Total miles:  16.5    Total climb:  1400 ft.

We left the Baran in two groups.  The early group had their adventure, and we in the afternoon group had ours.   The distance was disappointing but the ride was in many ways spectacular.  The morning group found several wineries, and a cafe featuring a friendly mademoiselle showing off her leopard print camisole.  I'm told she wore it well.  We in the afternoon found a very small winery where they spoke even less English than I spoke French.  Through a series of gestures, grunts and single syllable French and English words, we were able to tell these very kind people that we were interested in buying wine.  They pulled their son off a tractor to translate.  He took us into what looked like a garage/chicken coop.  This was a long low slung building that we had to stoop down to enter.  The first thing we saw upon entering was a dead chest freezer.  Leaning against it was a dead Vespa scooter.  There was a cat asleep on the freezer.  The floor was covered with straw.  There were cobwebs hanging off the seven foot ceiling.  The rest of the building was filled with bottles of wine resting on their sides stacked about four feet high.  We all had our doubts, but these people were being so nice to us.  Our host went to the house to uncork a bottle and get glasses.  Having grown up in Kentucky and been exposed to homemade spirits, I expected him to return with two Fred Flintstone jelly jars, or a couple mason jars, and some cloudy not quite red, not quite yellow, maybe amber liquid.  Instead he produced two sparkling clean wine glasses, and poured two healthy portions of nice dark, blood red wine for us to try.  Upon tasting this, there was no debate about if we were going to buy a bottle.  The only question was how much could we safely carry.  The vote was unanimous.  Two bottles, and "lets come back for more."  I still plan on returning to that winery.  

We continued riding until we came to the ostrich farm.  We had to stop.  They had a gift shop.  Our host was very informative and very friendly.  Fortunately, he spoke better English than I did French.  Our total ride time for 16.5 miles was three hours. 

See Parts of Tuesday's ride

 

Wednesday September 11

Total miles:  28    Total climb:  2100 ft.

This ride was supposed to have been the second half of yesterday's ride, but hey stuff happens.  This was probably the prettiest ride of the week.  We had nice climb up Hell's Hill and had a monster downhill.  The road going down was about four feet wide and steep.  There were no guard rails and there was no visibility around the next corner.  It was a great day.

View parts of our ride

 

 

Thursday September 12

Thursday was the most event filled touring day.  We saw quite a bit.  It was also Joyce and Brad's anniversary.  We ate out Joyce and Brad stayed in.  All dinners were outstanding (no surprise there).  We paid visits to Domme, Sarlot, Baynac Castle, and a very old town.
See Thursday's adventures

 

Friday September 13

Total Miles: 67  Total climb:  Best guess is under 1200 ft.

Friday was a different sort of of day.  It began with us dividing ourselves into two groups.  One group got up early and did a six mile ride through the local countryside and a visit to Duravel.  The second group slept in and later did the six mile ride.  That afternoon, eleven of our group went with William to  St. Cirq La Popie
and the ancient caves  at Lascaux.  Three of us opted for a bike ride.  The caves are about an hour north of the Baran and are home to some of the oldest cave drawings in existence.

The bike ride turned out to be a Gilligan's Island sort of thing.  A three hour tour gone horribly, wonderfully wrong.  Truthfully it turned out to be a great adventure.  It was supposed to be a 25 mile ride going through Duravel, Prayssac, Grezels, Castel Franc, and I believe, Luzech.   It turned into a sixty mile ride through all of the afore mentioned and Mercues, Caillac, and Douelle (I think).  The total mileage for the day was 67 miles.  Elevation, and average speed remain a mystery.   It turns out that there was a detour between  Prayssac and Castel Franc.  The detour put us on rt. D911.  It is a two to four lane highway with no shoulders, narrow lanes, and lots of traffic moving at high speeds.  It seemed that every time we got lost we wound up on D911.  A couple wrong turns put us way off the map and we rode through Castel Franc three times.

See Friday's adventures


Saturday September 14

Paris is a great museum city.  I mean that the whole city is a museum.  Everything is significant in some way.  It is also a good city to people watch. 

See Paris photos   
 

bulletOther Trips
The group dispersed on Saturday and several groups went on to other parts of France.  Ken and Mary Kay even wound up engaged.  June met a friend of hers in Paris.  Most of us spent some time in Paris.  Brad and Joyce went South, Ken and Mary Kay went North West.  I don't know where David and Karen went.  Mike, Gary, and Sue started their trips  home.

See photos of trips

 
bulletThe Food

We had some really wonderful meals.  We ate at the Baran on Saturday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday (I think).  Each meal was an event, the foods were combinations of the new and the familiar.  Even something as simple as a salad tasted better in France.  There is a much greater attention paid to fresh ingredients, and care in preparation.

View the food  
 

 

bullet   Thanks to the following companies.  They helped make this trip enjoyable:

Oakley Cycles: http://www.oakleycycles.com/

SST Travel in Cincinnati 


 

mediarama@idm.net.lb
cservice@sina.com

nospam