KRALLE - SCCA Solo2/ProSolo2 Street Modified Racing Front Suspension Page

Energy Suspension Bushings VFAQ*

Energy Suspension "Eclipse Front Control Arm Bushing Set" P/N 5.3118G from Road Race Engineering (or several other vendors).

These bushings do not go where you think they go. Luckily, my installer, Performance Alignment in Cincinnati, OH, noticed the bushings are too small before torching out the old bushings in the lower front control arm. I thought they went in the front lower control arm and the rear lower control arm.

Here's what the kit provides:

• 2 sets of small bushings, the ones on the left above. These are for the two bolts (per side) which connect the upper A-arm to the shock tower (chassis). If you have an Ingall's engineering camber adjustment kit, you already replaced these bolts and will not use these bushings. similar

• The large bushing, on the right above, connects the lower front control arm to the chassis, as shown below:

Problems:

1) My original reason for buying the kit was to replace the bushing that connects the shock yoke to the lower front control arm. Why? I was trying to install my Ground Control coilovers in preparation for the 2000 SCCA Solo2 Street Modified season. The bolts on my car are seized onto the metal bushing liner, and the bushing is torn. Also, I wanted to reduce compliance so the shock will dampen more of the disturbances.

2) The kit does not have a bushing for the chassis mounting connection to the "lower lateral link" (rear leg of the lower A-arm). BTW, I use this location as a handy place to put jackstands. Unlike the frame rails, nothing appears to break or bend.

Advice:

Camber adjustment I recommend against the Ingall's Engineering front amber adjustment kit. The bushings have way too much slop and poor tolerances. I'll post pics of the Ingall's kit next time I take them off the car. Currently, I have the K-MAC camber/caster adjustment kit on order from RRE. This kit will replace my bad upper control arm ball joints and give me caster adjustment.

You will not be competitive in ESP, SM, or CP classes unless you have camber adjustment in the front.

You need at least -1°, preferably about -1.5° camber. With this, you will be able to oversteer. I also highly recommend the RMDSM anti-sway bars. No penalty to ride, and they take out a lot of understeer. These bars are almost perfectly tuned. I run both front and back all year long, even in the snow.

If you do choose poorly and buy the Ingall's camber adjustment kit, it is $200 from Ingall's directly and only $140 from resellers, such as Lightning Motorsports.

Coilovers Coilovers and good shocks are worth as almost much as race tires to a DSM. I say this based on race results of Alex "Jumper" A. vs. my results. Alex had Ground Control coilovers and Tokico shocks. I had race tires. With this setup, he would be even or a second behind me on a 40-50 sec course. I'll report more once my coilovers are in. BTW, Alex recommends 6" keeper springs in the rear.

Shocks Don't be afraid of the Tokicos. While mine aren't in, Chris "The Phantom Racer" Barrett has his installed. As a passenger, even 5's (full stiff) on both ends felt good. Almost Teutonic in the ride quality.

Wheels The 5 spoke wheels shown on this site are 16*7.5" Borbet Type T's. The Borbet Type S is just slightly lighter, but kinda ricey. These are fairly light, cast wheels.

Tires I run 225/50-R16 Kumho V700 Victoracers. Truly a wonderful tire. I even drive up to 50 miles on them to events. I'll add wear pictures after one season sometime. I usually run around 42 psi front, 40 psi rear, but that is very specific to my suspension setup. The Phantom racer ran 37/35 or so on the stock 17*6.5" wheels with similar Kumho's. Any higher pressure led to crowning, so be careful.

Links:

Fastest Talon/Eclipses in America currently, #198

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